Finding serenity at a south indian retreat
Waking up at the Ayurveda Retreat in the Nilgiri Mountains of South India felt like stepping into a dream. As I jumped out of bed and opened the door, I was greeted by a idyllic view that no photograph could ever capture. My senses were on overdrive, the air was alive with the fresh, invigorating scent of towering eucalyptus trees, their turquoise leaves glistening in the sunlight. I also admired the hundreds of acres of tea bushes, beautifully tended by the tea plantation workers that surrounded the retreat. The crisp, clean air seeped through the loose cladding of the circular apartment where I was staying; it was pure calmness.
In the distance, the sounds of wildlife going about their morning rituals added to the serene atmosphere. It was hard to believe that just twenty-four hours earlier, I had been amidst the hustle and bustle of Dubai, grappling with everyday smells and noise pollution that could intimidate even the strongest of spirits. Now, standing here, I couldn’t help but wonder, “Is this real? Am I truly here?”
An awkward journey to ayurvedic enlightenment
The apartments were basic wooden circular buildings scattered around the retreat, so you had privacy if you wanted it, as some guests were there to rehabilitate from illnesses or surgery. There was a main building away from the apartments where the office was located, along with doctors and a kitchen if needed. I remembered this building from when I arrived last night, as the smells of cooking and the different herbs used were divine. I took a gentle stroll down a pathway lined with freshly planted herbs to the notice board situated outside the main building, where I could see which treatments I was scheduled for and at what times they would commence. This board served as the main communication for all guests, detailing mealtimes, treatments, etc.
Why I was there you ask? My goal was to find a way to manage my beta-thalassemia. I heard Ayurveda as an alternative way of traditional medicine- could help me find more balance. I was excited to see my first treatment, which was called “Abhyanga.” A word hard to pronounce which I soon discovered meant a full-body massage. Anxiety settled in, making my palms grow slightly sweaty at the uneasy thought of getting a massage.
For most, this would be a relaxing or joyful experience, but as it was my first-ever massage, I felt uncertain and vulnerable. I had no idea what to expect from an Ayurvedic treatment, making the whole experience a nerve-wracking surprise. I quickly returned to my room to change into a t-shirt, shorts, and bathrobe as instructed by the staff. As prepared as I could be, I made my way down to the garden, where I was greeted by two Indian men standing outside a dimly lit room, part of a long row of wooden treatment spaces. They instructed me to disrobe and take off my clothes. I hesitantly asked, “All?” and they nodded silently. Now I was nervous! There I was, standing in front of two complete strangers, wearing nothing but the attributes I was born with. One of the men held a piece of loincloth meant for me to wear. That garment wouldn’t have even sufficed as an eye patch.
The two Indian men were fumbling with the loincloth, trying to tie it in a way that felt invasive, reaching areas I didn’t even know I had. Gripping tightly to the side of a marvelous piece of carved wood that had been shaped into a solid massage table, I tried to distract myself, as this was all a bit overwhelming for a first-timer.
Slippery slopes and soothing scents
I was finally instructed to sit on the side of the table and with apprehension I held the sides of the table with my life while the two men said a prayer, or perhaps chanted a mantra, flicking oil and, what felt like slapping the top of my head. You might think it sounded a bit rough, and you’d be right, but the combination of hot oil and firm hands on my head was bliss. I eventually lay down so they could carry out the full-body front massage. My body was split into two sections, with each man perfectly synchronised, splashing the lustrous elixir and rubbing it into my skin. I initially lay their tense, but soon surrendered to the calming scents and the soothing chimed music playing in the background. This lasted about fifteen minutes before I was instructed to turn over, where they repeated the same procedure on my back, except this time they removed the loincloth from the depths of my buttocks. Feeling enlightened and fully relaxed, I felt every part of my body had surrendered to the massage. I sensed the loincloth being retied and was gently asked to sit up on the edge of the table. Simple enough, I thought—until I found myself sliding down the slick surface like a Olympic ice hockey puck gliding heading for the winning goal, thanks to the considerable amount of oil and the smoothness of the table. I couldn’t help but chuckle, picturing myself as a basted turkey ready for the oven.
The spider, the stool, and the sandy surprise
As I sat up and looked around, I noticed one man was missing. The remaining one simply said “Please” and gently guided me towards a room at the back. Walking naked with all the oil moving between every orifice of my body felt strange! I entered the room to find his partner in crime, now wearing an apron with his trousers rolled up to his knees. You can imagine what was going through my mind! This now looked like a scene out of Dexter. The room contained only a tap, a toilet, and a plastic stool. He came over and instructed me to sit on the stool. Now I was vulnerable and helpless. I struggled to balance on the slippery plastic surface as the oil was still clinging to my skin. I looked straight ahead at a worn window, noticing a spider creeping out to see what all the fuss was about. I said to myself, focus on the spider and create a world where you’re the spider. Then my thoughts were snapped away when one of the men said, “Stand up.” As I did, he took out a substance from a pot that resembled liquid sandpaper and rubbed it all over my body. And when I say all over, I mean every crack and crease; nothing was missed. The other man repeatedly poured hot water over me to remove the soap-like grit and oil. This went on for about ten minutes. When they finished, one of the men handed me a towel and my robe. I was thinking, “What just happened?” Then they showed me to the door with big smiles on their faces, not in a weird way, but in a way that made it clear they knew their craft and believed that Ayurvedic massage would help me on a journey of recovery. I put my palms together and slightly bowed to them, saying, “Namaste.”
How a spider, two men, and a cup of liquid heaven made my day unforgettable
As I walked back to my apartment, my mind was racing with thoughts about what just happened. I was naïve when it came to massages and I wondered if I should keep it to myself—just between me, the two men, and the spider that had witnessed it all.
Lost in my reflections, I was tapped on the shoulder and greeted by a cook with a big smile offering me tea. I accepted, thanked him and realised, oh my god, he handed me liquid heaven, fresh masala chai. I couldn’t get enough of it. I drunk it in the gardens with the heavenly strong scent of clean air and eucalyptus. Reminiscing about my massage, I thought to myself, “Was that supposed to happen? Is that what they do?” but thinking all that, I had to admit I felt amazing, radiant. It was an incredible experience that I would do again and one I will defiantly never forget!
